Cosmetic raw material
Cement·Concrete additive
High-function industrial products
Cosmetic raw material
Cosmetic raw material
Cement·Concrete additive
High-function industrial products
Arbutin
Whitening agent
Arbutin is commercially used as a skin-whitening agent in cosmetic industry. It works by competitive inhibition of the enzyme,, tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the synthesis off melanin.
Depending on the spatial structure of the glycosidic linkage between glucose and hydroquinone, arbutin forms two epimers: α-arbutin and β-arbutin.
NATURAL SOURCE AND INDUSTRIAL PROCESS METHOD
• Beta-Arbutin
Beta-Arbutin is often referred to as just Arbutin. It is can be naturally extracted from plants such as
bearberry and synthesized by chemical method. Synthesized Beta-Arbutin is currently one of the most
widely used hypopigmenting agents in cosmetics, while plant-derived drugs containing Beta-Arbutin
were initially used for the treatment of urinary tract infections, cystitis, kidney stones, and as diuretics in the medical field.
• α-Arbutin
Allpha-Arbutin is enzymatically synthesized from hydroquinone and saccharides through transglycosylation reaction. Various carbohydrate-active enzymes such as αα-amylase, αα-glucosidase, transglucosidase, sucrose phosphorylase, and dextransucrase have been employed to synthesize Alphha-Arbutin. It is one of the most advanced skin lightening ingredients on the market.
PREPARATION METHOD
[Beta-Arbutin Specification]
Analysis | Specification |
---|---|
Assay | ≥99% |
Appearance | White crystalline powder |
Melting Point | 199~201±0.5℃ |
PH(1%water solution) | 5.0-7.0 |
Specific Optical Rotation | -66±2° |
Loss on drying | ≤0.5% |
Residue on ignition | ≤0.5% |
Hydrochinone | ≤10ppm |
Heavy metals | ≤20ppm |
Arsenic | ≤2ppm |
Total Plate Count | ≤300cfu/g |
Total Yeast Count | ≤100cfu/g |
[Alpha-Arbutin Specification]
Analysis | Specification |
---|---|
Assay | ≥99% HPLC |
Appearance | White crystalline powder |
Hydrochinone | ≤10ppm |
Melting Point | 203-206(±1)℃ |
Specific Optical Rotation | [a]20D= + 174.0°- +186.0° |
Infrared peak value | 1514㎝ˉ¹; 1229㎝ˉ¹; 1215㎝ˉ¹; 1059㎝ˉ¹; 1034㎝ˉ¹; |
Solubility | Soluble in water, slightly soluble in ethanol |
Clarity | Solution should be clarify, none suspended matters |
PH(1% water solution) | 5.0-7.0 |
Loss on drying | ≤0.5% |
Residue on Ignition | ≤0.5% |
Heavy metals | ≤10ppm |
Lead | ≤2ppm |
Arsenic | ≤2ppm |
Mercury | ≤1ppm |
Total Plate Count | ≤100cfu/g |
Total Yeast & Mold | ≤50cfu/g |
E.Coli | Negative |
Salmonella | Negative |
Staphylococcus | Negative |
ARBUTIN WORKING MECHANISM
Arbutin exhibits potent melanin-inhibiting properties and confers whitening effects on the skin. Sun damage and injury or inflammation to the skin from acne, eczema or psoriasis are the two main factors that cause melanin production on the skin. Arbutin can reduce the accumulation of pigment by inhibiting the production of melanin, which accumulates on the skin when tyrosine is oxidized. An enzyme called tyrosinase is the catalytic for this reaction. Scientists found arbutin has shown inhibitory actions against tyrosinase. When topically apply skincare products containing Arbutin, the inhabitation of tyrosinase results in the decrease of melanin, thus, a whiter complexion. Hyperpigmentation in the epidermis is caused by excessive melanin synthesis due to UV irradiation, wound or stress. Tyrosinase is one of the key enzymes involved in melanin synthesis. The enzyme catalyses the first two steps in melanin synthesis: the hydroxylation of tyrosine to DOPA and the oxidation of DOPA to dopaquinone. Arbutin has an direct inhibitory function against tyrosinase, which leads to the prevention of melanin formation and a whitening effect on the skin.
ALPHA-ARBUTIN V.S. BETA-ARBUTIN
Recent research showed that Alpha-Arbutin has a 10-fold stronger inhibitory effect on the activity of tyrosinase from human malignant melanoma cells than that of Beta-Arbutin. The α-glucosidic bond found in Alpha-Arbutin offers higher stability than the β form found in the related Beta-Arbutin. Moreover, Alpha-Arbutin hardly inhibited cell growth at 1 mmol/L, while Beta-Arbutin inhibits it significantly at the same concentration. It is, therefore, considered that Alpha-Arbutin is an effective and safe ingredient for cosmetics. Alpha arbutin is very expensive. That is the one downside.
[Differences between Alpha-Arbutin V.S. Beta-Arbutin]
FEATURE OF PLAMED ARBUTIN
• Beta-Arbutin is produced by environment friendly new tech, annual productivity 100mts, table supply.
• Loss on drying strictly controlled, less than 0.5%
• Hydroquinone residue less than 10ppm, Hydroquinone is poisonous and is forbidden in cosmetics. The residue control is very important.
APPLICATION AND REFERENCE AMOUNT
Arbutin is used as a skin whitening agent, a sunscreen agent and an antioxidant in cosmetic formulations. Arbutin soap, cream, serum and lotion are among the major lightening products you will found in the market.
[Arbutin’s advantage over traditional skin-whitening products]
Arbutin can inhibit melanogenesis without causing melanocyte toxicity, unlike traditional depigmenting agents such as hydroquinone, corticosteroids, and kojic acid.
Note
• Arbutin breaks down easily in acidic conditions, so the pH value of cosmetics containing Arbutin should be greater than 6.0.
• Please dissolve arbutin in 50℃ hot water before adding it to skin whitening products. (Arbutin is soluble in hot water, methanol or alcohol. Arbutin is partially soluble in cold water. Arbutin is insoluble in aether, chloroform or benzene.)
• Antioxidants should be added to cosmetics containing Arbutin.
ARBUTIN REFERENCE FORMULA
[Whitening cream]
[Anti-freckle whitening essence]
[Preparation method]
Heat water phase(Vitamin C, Glycerin, Ethanol, Caisson) and oil phase(Vitamin E, Antioxidant) to 50-60℃ respectively, slowly pour water phase into oil phase, then add Angelica sinensis, Ligusticum wallichii, Scutellaria baicalensis, Liquorice and Arbuti, stir well, then obtain the essence.
[Whitening toner]
[Preparation method]
Weigh above ingredients of Group A and put them to the water phase bottle; under the condition of stirring rate of 10r/min, heat to 75℃, hold for 10min, then get the water phase. Put the Group B ingredients into oil phase bottle, under the condition of stirring rate of 20r/min, heat to 80℃, hold
for 15min, then get the oil phase. Mix the two phases for 500s, cool to 30℃, then get the toner.
[Others]
Arbutin compounding with vitamin C derivatives can make skin more moisturizing and transparent. With hyaluronic acid can relieve dry skin. With glycyrrhizic acid can repair sunburn.
[Application cases of Arbutin in cosmetics brand around the world]
Country | Brand | Product | Main ingredient |
---|---|---|---|
Japan | DHC | Eyes Gel Strip Masks | Arbutin, olive leaf extract, mulberry extract, peony extract |
Winona | Arbutin white moisturizing face mask | Arbutin, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Aloe extract, Camellia Sinensis extract, horse chestnut extract | |
Taiwan Don Du Ciel | Alpha Arbutin Whitening Aqua Gel | Alpha Arbutin , Tranexamic acid, Hyaluronic Acid | |
Taiwan Annie's way | Brightening Jelly Mask | Arbutin, Hyaluronic Acid | |
Korea | The Elixir | Beauty Facial Mask | Arbutin, Licorice root extract, witch hazel extract, hyaluronic acid |
KFB BARONESS | Arbutin Mask sheet | Arbutin, Water, rice bran extract, Glycerin, copolymer, sodium hyaluronate, tocophetrl acetate, carbomer, hydrolyzed collagen | |
USA | Cape fear naturals | Super alpha arbutin cream | Water, propylene glycol, glyceryl stearate, stearic acid, dimethicone, steareth-2, steareth-20, alpha arbutin, retinyl palmitate (retinol-a), vitamin e acetate, methyl and propyl parabens |
The Ordinary | Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA | Alpha Arbutin | |
Qrxlabs | Skin Lightening Serum | Kojic Acid, Alpha Arbutin, Organic Licorice extract, Lemon Balm extract | |
Sweetsation Therapy | Lumiessence | Kojic Acid, Alpha Arbutin, Niacinamide, Papaya and Pineapple extract | |
Del organics | All-In-One Serum | Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid, Alpha Arbutin, Niacinamide, Wakame Bioferment, Astaxanthin, Peptide | |
DNA CODE | Skin Whitening Peel Pads Kojic | Kojic Acid, Alpha Arbutin, Glycolic acid, Salicylic, Lactic Acid, Papaya, Pineapple, Argireline, DMAE |
SAFETY
The Catalog Of the International Cosmetics Raw Material Standard English Name issued by CTFA and CAFFCI in 2010 and On the Announcement of Name List of Cosmetics Raw Material published by China Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in 2014 both have specified Alpha Arbutin and Beta Arbutin as cosmetic ingredient.
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PNC Co., Ltd.
[Headquarters] 136 Deokgye-gil, Bongsan-ri, Gimpo-eup, Gimcheon-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do
[Central Research Institute of Technology] Daedong Advanced Industrial Complex Research Facility B2-1 in Wolchon-ri, Daedong-myeon, Gimhae-si, Gyeongsangnam-do
[Factory] Central Research Institute of Technology> 68-5 Naeyul 1-gil, Buksam-eup, Chilgok-gun, Gyeongsangbuk-do
COPYRIGHT (C) PNC Co., Ltd. All Rights reserved
PNC Co., Ltd.
[Headquarters] 136 Deokgye-gil, Bongsan-ri, Gimpo-eup, Gimcheon-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do
[Central Research Institute of Technology] Daedong Advanced Industrial Complex Research Facility B2-1 in Wolchon-ri, Daedong-myeon, Gimhae-si, Gyeongsangnam-do
[Factory] Central Research Institute of Technology> 68-5 Naeyul 1-gil, Buksam-eup, Chilgok-gun, Gyeongsangbuk-d
COPYRIGHT (C) PNC Co., Ltd. All Rights reserved