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  • PNC Co. Ltd.
  • Cosmetic raw material
  • Cement·Concrete additive
  • High-function industrial products
  • Cosmetic raw material

    Cosmetic raw material

    Cement·Concrete additive

    High-function industrial products

    Arbutin

    Whitening agent

    Arbutin is commercially used as a skin-whitening agent in cosmetic industry. It works by competitive inhibition of the enzyme,, tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the synthesis off melanin. 
    Depending on the spatial structure of the glycosidic linkage between glucose and hydroquinone, arbutin forms two epimers: α-arbutin and β-arbutin.

    NATURAL SOURCE AND INDUSTRIAL PROCESS METHOD

    • Beta-Arbutin 
    Beta-Arbutin is often referred to as just Arbutin. It is can be naturally extracted from plants such as 
    bearberry and synthesized by chemical method. Synthesized Beta-Arbutin is currently one of the most 
    widely used hypopigmenting agents in cosmetics, while plant-derived drugs containing Beta-Arbutin 
    were initially used for the treatment of urinary tract infections, cystitis, kidney stones, and as diuretics in the medical field. 

    • α-Arbutin
    Allpha-Arbutin is enzymatically synthesized from hydroquinone and saccharides through transglycosylation reaction. Various carbohydrate-active enzymes such as αα-amylase, αα-glucosidase, transglucosidase, sucrose phosphorylase, and dextransucrase have been employed to synthesize Alphha-Arbutin. It is one of the most advanced skin lightening ingredients on the market. 

    PREPARATION METHOD

    Product nameSpecification 
    Beta-Arbutin99.5% HPLC 
    Alpha-Arbutin
    99.5% HPLC 

    [Beta-Arbutin Specification]

    Analysis
    Specification
    Assay≥99%
    Appearance
    White crystalline powder 
    Melting Point
    199~201±0.5℃ 
    PH(1%water solution)
    5.0-7.0 
    Specific Optical Rotation
    -66±2° 
    Loss on drying
    ≤0.5% 
    Residue on ignition
    ≤0.5% 
    Hydrochinone
    ≤10ppm 
    Heavy metals
    ≤20ppm 
    Arsenic
    ≤2ppm 
    Total Plate Count
    ≤300cfu/g 
    Total Yeast Count
    ≤100cfu/g 

    [Alpha-Arbutin Specification]

    AnalysisSpecification
    Assay≥99% HPLC
    Appearance
    White crystalline powder 
    Hydrochinone
    ≤10ppm 
    Melting Point
    203-206(±1)℃ 
    Specific Optical Rotation
    [a]20D= + 174.0°- +186.0° 
    Infrared peak value
    1514㎝ˉ¹; 1229㎝ˉ¹; 1215㎝ˉ¹; 1059㎝ˉ¹; 1034㎝ˉ¹;
    Solubility
    Soluble in water, slightly soluble in ethanol 
    Clarity
    Solution should be clarify, none suspended matters
    PH(1% water solution)
    5.0-7.0 
    Loss on drying
    ≤0.5% 
    Residue on Ignition
    ≤0.5% 
    Heavy metals
    ≤10ppm 
    Lead
    ≤2ppm 
    Arsenic
    ≤2ppm
    Mercury
    ≤1ppm 
    Total Plate Count
    ≤100cfu/g 
    Total Yeast & Mold
    ≤50cfu/g 
    E.Coli
    Negative 
    Salmonella
    Negative 
    Staphylococcus
    Negative 

    ARBUTIN WORKING MECHANISM

    Arbutin exhibits potent melanin-inhibiting properties and confers whitening effects on the skin. Sun damage and injury or inflammation to the skin from acne, eczema or psoriasis are the two main factors that cause melanin production on the skin. Arbutin can reduce the accumulation of pigment by inhibiting the production of melanin, which accumulates on the skin when tyrosine is oxidized. An enzyme called tyrosinase is the catalytic for this reaction. Scientists found arbutin has shown inhibitory actions against tyrosinase. When topically apply skincare products containing Arbutin, the inhabitation of tyrosinase results in the decrease of melanin, thus, a whiter complexion. Hyperpigmentation in the epidermis is caused by excessive melanin synthesis due to UV irradiation, wound or stress. Tyrosinase is one of the key enzymes involved in melanin synthesis. The enzyme catalyses the first two steps in melanin synthesis: the hydroxylation of tyrosine to DOPA and the oxidation of DOPA to dopaquinone. Arbutin has an direct inhibitory function against tyrosinase, which leads to the prevention of melanin formation and a whitening effect on the skin. 

    ALPHA-ARBUTIN V.S. BETA-ARBUTIN

    Recent research showed that Alpha-Arbutin has a 10-fold stronger inhibitory effect on the activity of tyrosinase from human malignant melanoma cells than that of Beta-Arbutin. The α-glucosidic bond found in Alpha-Arbutin offers higher stability than the β form found in the related Beta-Arbutin. Moreover, Alpha-Arbutin hardly inhibited cell growth at 1 mmol/L, while Beta-Arbutin inhibits it significantly at the same concentration. It is, therefore, considered that Alpha-Arbutin is an effective and safe ingredient for cosmetics. Alpha arbutin is very expensive. That is the one downside. 

    [Differences between Alpha-Arbutin V.S. Beta-Arbutin]


    ProductionTyrosinase inhibitory efficacyStabilitySafety
    Price
    Alpha-Arbutinenzymatically synthesized10 times strongerhigher 
    safer
    more
    expensive
    Beta-Arbutinextracted or chemically synthesizedweakerlowerinhibit cell growth
    cheaper

    FEATURE OF PLAMED ARBUTIN

    • Beta-Arbutin is produced by environment friendly new tech, annual productivity 100mts, table supply.
    • Loss on drying strictly controlled, less than 0.5%
    • Hydroquinone residue less than 10ppm, Hydroquinone is poisonous and is forbidden in cosmetics. The residue control is very important.

    APPLICATION AND REFERENCE AMOUNT

    Arbutin is used as a skin whitening agent, a sunscreen agent and an antioxidant in cosmetic formulations. Arbutin soap, cream, serum and lotion are among the major lightening products you will found in the market.

    Product nameReference Amount
    Beta-Arbutin1-3%
    Alpha-Arbutin
    0.2-2%

    [Arbutin’s advantage over traditional skin-whitening products]

    Arbutin can inhibit melanogenesis without causing melanocyte toxicity, unlike traditional depigmenting agents such as hydroquinone, corticosteroids, and kojic acid.

    Note

    • Arbutin breaks down easily in acidic conditions, so the pH value of cosmetics containing Arbutin should be greater than 6.0.
    • Please dissolve arbutin in 50℃ hot water before adding it to skin whitening products. (Arbutin is soluble in hot water, methanol or alcohol. Arbutin is partially soluble in cold water. Arbutin is insoluble in aether, chloroform or benzene.)
    • Antioxidants should be added to cosmetics containing Arbutin.

    ARBUTIN REFERENCE FORMULA

    [Whitening cream]

    IngredientContent (%)IngredientContent (%)
    Vaseline39Arbutin1
    Stearyl alcohol15Vitamin E1
    Beeswax15Fragrance0.5
    Glycerin monostearate0.5Distilled water27
    Polyethylene glycol monooleate1

    [Anti-freckle whitening essence]

    IngredientContent (%)IngredientContent (%)
    Vitamin C2-4Arbutin
    4-6
    Glycerin4-6Antioxidant
    0.09-0.2
    Ethanol43-45Angelica sinensis
    9-11
    Caisson0.09-0.2Ligusticum wallichii
    7-9
    Vitamin E4-6Scutellaria baicalensis
    9-11
    Liquorice9-11

    [Preparation method]
    Heat water phase(Vitamin C, Glycerin, Ethanol, Caisson) and oil phase(Vitamin E, Antioxidant) to 50-60℃ respectively, slowly pour water phase into oil phase, then add Angelica sinensis, Ligusticum wallichii, Scutellaria baicalensis, Liquorice and Arbuti, stir well, then obtain the essence.

    [Whitening toner]


    IngredientContent (%)IngredientContent (%)
    Group AArbutin0.1-3Guava leaves extracts1-5
    Deionized water63-89.8Guava fruit extract3-5
    Hyaluronic acid5-10Hydrolyzed pearl solution1-5
    Group BPropylene glycol 0.1-1Glycerin5-10

    [Preparation method]
    Weigh above ingredients of Group A and put them to the water phase bottle; under the condition of stirring rate of 10r/min, heat to 75℃, hold for 10min, then get the water phase. Put the Group B ingredients into oil phase bottle, under the condition of stirring rate of 20r/min, heat to 80℃, hold
    for 15min, then get the oil phase. Mix the two phases for 500s, cool to 30℃, then get the toner.

    [Others]
    Arbutin compounding with vitamin C derivatives can make skin more moisturizing and transparent. With hyaluronic acid can relieve dry skin. With glycyrrhizic acid can repair sunburn.

    [Application cases of Arbutin in cosmetics brand around the world]

    CountryBrandProductMain ingredient
    JapanDHCEyes Gel Strip Masks
    Arbutin, olive leaf extract, mulberry extract, peony extract
    WinonaArbutin white moisturizing face mask
    Arbutin, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Aloe extract, Camellia Sinensis extract, horse chestnut extract
    Taiwan Don Du CielAlpha Arbutin Whitening Aqua Gel
    Alpha Arbutin , Tranexamic acid, Hyaluronic Acid 
    Taiwan Annie's wayBrightening Jelly Mask
    Arbutin, Hyaluronic Acid
    KoreaThe Elixir
    Beauty Facial Mask
    Arbutin, Licorice root extract, witch hazel extract, hyaluronic acid
    KFB BARONESS
    Arbutin Mask sheet
    Arbutin, Water, rice bran extract, Glycerin, copolymer, sodium hyaluronate, tocophetrl acetate, carbomer, hydrolyzed collagen
    USACape fear naturals
    Super alpha arbutin cream
    Water, propylene glycol, glyceryl stearate, stearic acid, dimethicone, steareth-2, steareth-20, alpha arbutin, retinyl palmitate (retinol-a), vitamin e acetate, methyl and propyl parabens
    The Ordinary
    Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA
    Alpha Arbutin
    Qrxlabs
    Skin Lightening Serum
    Kojic Acid, Alpha Arbutin, Organic Licorice extract, Lemon Balm extract
    Sweetsation Therapy
    Lumiessence
    Kojic Acid, Alpha Arbutin, Niacinamide, Papaya and Pineapple extract
    Del organics
    All-In-One Serum
    Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid, Alpha Arbutin, Niacinamide, Wakame Bioferment, Astaxanthin, Peptide
    DNA CODE
    Skin Whitening Peel Pads Kojic
    Kojic Acid, Alpha Arbutin, Glycolic acid, Salicylic, Lactic Acid, Papaya, Pineapple, Argireline, DMAE

    SAFETY

    The Catalog Of the International Cosmetics Raw Material Standard English Name issued by CTFA and CAFFCI in 2010 and On the Announcement of Name List of Cosmetics Raw Material published by China Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in 2014 both have specified Alpha Arbutin and Beta Arbutin as cosmetic ingredient.

    STORAGE

    • Please tightly seal Arbutin in containers. Store it in a cool dry place and away from sunlight and oxidizing agents.
    • Packed in 25kg paper drum, 1kg aluminum foil package inside.

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